The Assault RC Revolver Series 7x19x6mm Ceramic Engine Bearing provides the maximum performance and reliability to your racing engine at a competitive price. The bearing contains 9 G3 Si3N4 Ceramic Balls riding on an advanced poly inner cage and Chrome Steel 52100 Rings. It has no seals to allow for proper lubrication from the oil in your fuel. Ceramic engine bearings can boost most RC engines an extra 500 rpm with less drag and the life of the bearing is far greater than a steel bearing. Another benefit to ceramics is the weight difference in the balls allowing for less rotating mass.
Used In
- Ultimate Racing: M-3X, M-3R, M-5S
- O.S. Speed: B21, VZ-B, VZ-B V-Spec, VZ-B V-Spec Speed, & VZ-B V-Spec II WE, B2101, B2102, B2103
- Novarossi: Plus 4 (2008), Plus 21-7T, P5 (Original), 421B, BS-21SB, & C5
- RB: C5/C6, S3, S5, S7, TM928
- Reds: M7T, M7TGT, R5, R5R, R5T, R5TTE
- ProTek: 321B
- Alpha
- Jammin
- Ninja
- Picco
- Precirotate: D5, PR21B, PR21BS, & PR21C
- Trinity Drake
- Flash Point
Tips
- Diagnosing: Normally you can tell if a front bearing is going bad if after a run there is a wet spot on the bottom of your motor next to the flywheel. A little bit of wet is ok and usually just a sign of a rich low-end needle. If the bearing is bad your signs will be inconsistent tune and possible chance of damaging the crank/case if it completely goes.
- Installation: The best way to install engine bearings is to use a bearing puller/installer. Reds Racing makes a very affordable version. For proper lubrication, face the open side where you can see the balls to the rear of the motor (not the clutch side).
- Break-In: For the first run of these bearings, Assault RC suggests that you richin your motor up on the high-end needle so the balls will seat instead of skidding them. Always heat your engine up to 200F before cranking the engine
